Hand Plane Restoration Part 1



A few people have asked if I could go through the process I use to restore a hand plane, so here it is. All the planes I've collected have received this restoration process.
PART 1: Lapping the sole, Disassembly, Cleaning the fittings & Frog preparation.
Click on thumbnails for full size images!


I'll use a Stanley Bailey #2 type 4 for this pictorial. I did cheat a bit... I've already given the lever cap, chip breaker & iron a lash with the Scotch-Brite wheel but I'll cover it again later on.
I usually lap the sole & sides first so I don't damage any new paint work later.
I then pull the plane apart & start on the hardware, e.g.. screws, rods & brass adjuster wheel etc.
I then pull the plane apart & start on the hardware, e.g.. screws, rods & brass adjuster wheel etc.
With the rods clean I turn my attention to the brass nuts that hold the knob & tote. These are usually damaged by some oaf using a screwdriver that's too small. It's quite easy to fix a slightly mangled nut.
I put the brass nut on a short rod & put it in a drill press. Using a small block of timber with some P180 on it I give it a quick sand.
Here it is after sanding & before polishing.
I then put the rod & nut in a cordless drill & polish it with a buffing wheel (stitched cloth) on a bench grinder. The polish I use is called Multi-Shine, it's a light blue colour.
The finished thing!
When I do the levercap retaining screw I protect the thread with masking tape
It receives the same treatment as the brass nuts.
I remove all the rust from the frog retaining screws & washers using the wire wheel.
Next I move on to the brass adjustment wheel. Here it's being polished on the buffing wheel.
I use a high-tec solution for polishing the recess of the wheel. A piece of dowel with a saw kerf about 15mm long in the end of it. I then slot some cloth for polishing &.........
I use steel wool taped over the tip to do the initial cleaning
Finished adjustment wheel, nice ;))
If you need to you can remove the depth adjustment yoke by knocking out the indicated pin. It does make the masking & painting of the frog easier.
Here I'm removing the yoke pin. Be sure that the pin drift is SMALLER than the pin as you don't want it stuck in the hole.
Now I have it apart. After bitter experience I learned to put the pin IMMEDIATELY with the other fittings.
While I have the frog in hand I check & flatten the base if needed.
I also do the frogs' mounting points on the plane base. Just a block of timber wrapped with some sandpaper will sort it out.
I also lap the plane iron bed on the frog. I put some duct tape around the lateral adjuster so it won't be damaged.
The frog is lapped at the very edge of a bit of glass with sandpaper attached because the lateral adjustment wheel is proud of the plane iron bed.
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