P Restor 01
  • P Restor 01
    I'll use a Stanley Bailey #2 type 4 for this pictorial. I did cheat a bit... I've already given the lever cap, chip breaker & iron a lash with the Scotch-Brite wheel but I'll cover it again later on.
  • P Restor 02
    I usually lap the sole & sides first so I don't damage any new paint work later.
  • P Restor 03
    I then pull the plane apart & start on the hardware, e.g.. screws, rods & brass adjuster wheel etc.
  • P Restor 03a
    I use a brass wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean up the rods.
  • P Restor 04
    With the rods clean I turn my attention to the brass nuts that hold the knob & tote. These are usually damaged by some oaf using a screwdriver thats too small. It's quite easy to fix a slightly mangled nut.
  • P Restor 05
    I put the brass nut on a short rod & put it in a drill press. Using a small block of timber with some P180 on it I give it a quick sand.
  • P Restor 06
    Here it is before polishing.
  • P Restor 07
    I then put the rod & nut in a cordless drill & polish it with a buffing wheel (stitched cloth) on a bench grinder. The polish I use is called Multi-Shine, it's a light blue colour.
  • P Restor 08
    The finished thing!
  • P Restor 10
    When I do the levercap retaining screw I protect the thread with masking tape.
  • P Restor 11
    It receives the same treatment as the brass nuts.
  • P Restor 13
    Next I move on to the brass adjustment wheel. Here it's being polished on the buffing wheel.
  • P Restor 15
    I use a high-tec solution for polishing the recess of the wheel... A piece of dowel with a saw kerf about 15mm long in the end of it. First up I use steel wool taped over the tip to do the initial cleaning.
  • P Restor 14
    I then slot some cloth for polishing &.........
  • P Restor 16
    Finished wheel, nice ;)))
  • P Restor 17
    If you need to, you can remove the depth adjustment yoke by knocking out the indicated pin. It does make the masking & painting of the frog a LOT easier.
  • P Restor 18
    Here I'm removing the yoke pin. Be sure that the pin drift is SMALLER than the pin as you don't want it stuck in the hole.
  • P Restor 19
    Now I have it apart. After bitter experience I learned to put the pin IMMEDIATELY with the other fittings.
  • P Restor 20
    While I have the frog in hand I check & flatten the base if needed.
  • P Restor 21
    I also do the frogs' mounting points on the plane base. Just a block of timber wrapped with some sandpaper will sort it out.
  • P Restor 22
    I also lap the plane iron bed on the frog. I put some duct tape around the lateral adjuster so it won't be damaged.
  • P Restor 23
    The frog is lapped at the very edge of a bit of glass with sandpaper attached because the lateral adjustment wheel is proud of the plane iron bed.
  • P Restor 24
  • P Restor 25
    Moving on to the timber work. At left are my mandrels they fit different size knobs. I use these to mount the knob as I don't have a lathe.

  • P Restor 26
    I make sure that there is a washer in the top hole otherwise you will damage the knob nut bearing surface & the knob will always come lose on the plane.
  • P Restor 27
    Mounted in the drill press. It dosen't matter if the knob dosen't spin true just use a low speed. I think mine is running at about 400-500 rpm.
  • P Restor 28
    I start with P120 paper & progress through the grits. I try not to change the shape of the knob with excessive sanding.
  • P Restor 29
    Sanded to P600....Smooooth As :))
  • P Restor 30
    Now for the tote. This is a bit slower as it has to be done by hand.
  • P Restor 31
    Finished! The knob & tote are ready for a coat or 2 of lacquer.
  • P Restor 32
    The plane body & frog are ready to be put in the electrolysis bath. I attach a tall rod to act as the cathode (negative attachment) point.
  • P Restor 33
    I make up a solution of water (enough to cover the plane/frog) with LECTRIC washing soda, available at a supermarket. The mix ratio is 2 table spoons/ litre It needs mixing well.
  • P Restor 34
    The best cathode to use is stainless steel. I get mine from a local sheet metal shop. They always have a bin full of scrap for which they are paid by the recyclers. They let me have a few pieces for free.
  • P Restor 35
    Here is my setup. I use a tricky-dicky power supply that's rated at 3 amps. The negative lead is attached to the plane & the positive lead is attached to a sacrificial piece of stainless steel. I'l leave it cook overnight.
  • P Restor 36
    When you fire it up you should see lotz of tiny bubbles down the length of the plane.
  • P Restor 37
    This is what the soup looks like in the morning. Electrolysis will only work until there is no more rust to remove - You CAN NOT overcook it.
  • P Restor 38
    Straight out of the bath, you can see where the japaning is bubbled. This means there was rust UNDER the japaning.
  • P Restor 39
    Starting the cleaning plane body.
  • P Restor 40
    All clean! I then give it a quick wash with Methylated Spirits & put in the sun to dry.
  • P Restor 41
    Now the frog gets the same treatment as the plane body. To make it easy to attach the negative lead I bolt on a piece of copper wire that will be above the liquid level.
  • P Restor 42
    While the frog is brewing I mask the plane body.
  • P Restor 43
    I press down on the masking tape at the edge so I can see the outline of the plane underneath. Then it a simple matter of cutting using a scalpel. It's easier to start in the middle.
  • P Restor 44
    Easy as!!
  • P Restor 45
    I then mask the other side & then the sole.
  • P Restor 46
    The machined surfaces in the plane body need masking as well.
  • P Restor 47
    The body is all masked now.
  • P Restor 52
    While waiting for the frog to cook I spray the knob & tote. 2nd coat a couple of hours later. They have been sprayed but not hand rubbed with wax & steel wool.

  • P Restor 48
    Frog is ready!! & I've given it a clean.
  • P Restor 49
    Now I mask it up. Same principles as the body.
  • P Restor 50
    Don't forget the underside.
  • P Restor 51
    All masked & ready to spray.
  • P Restor 53
    The first coat of Epoxy Enamel, satin finish.
  • P Restor 54
    The frog gets the same treatment. Both parts get 3 coats each.
  • P Restor 55
    These are the 3M Scotch-Brite wheels I use. They are 6" X 2" & you need to buy a centre for them. BUT you only need one centre as you can pop it out & put it in another wheel. The centre is designed to fit one of those tapered arbors that fit on a bench grinder. You can get them from industrial abrasive suppliers that stock 3M products. There is a huge range if grits available I use multi-finish wheels in medium & fine grades.
  • P Restor 56
    Since I've done the iron & cap earlier I'll demonstrate on an old chip breaker from a #4. The finished result was achieved in less than 1 min.
  • P Restor 57
    These wheels are Awesome!!
  • P Restor 58
    In less than a minute!!
  • P Restor 59
    Here is one I prepared earlier (for the #2)
  • P Restor 60
    ... & the finished lever cap.
  • P Restor 61
    Now the paint on the plane & frog is dry it's time to see what the time & effort of masking looks like.
  • P Restor 64
    Now it's time to put the yoke & pin back in place. Ensure the drift is LARGER than the pin hole.
  • P Restor 62
    Remove the masking tape from the bottom of the frog.
  • P Restor 63
    ... & the top.
  • P Restor 65
    When attaching the knob & tote use a screwdriver that fits the slot FULL WIDTH.
  • P Restor 66
    Looks good so far.........
  • P Restor 67
    Didn't even butcher the brass screw cap!
  • P Restor 69
    Now fit the lever cap, blade & chip breaker assembly.
  • P Restor 68
    Now just stand back & have a look!
  • P Restor 70
    VERY nice!
  • P Restor 95
    Ready for the next 100 years. Sharpen the blade & away we go.....

P Restor 01