I'll use a Stanley Bailey #2 type 4 for this pictorial. I did cheat a bit... I've already given the lever cap, chip breaker & iron a lash with the Scotch-Brite wheel but I'll cover it again later on.

I usually lap the sole & sides first so I don't damage any new paint work later.

I then pull the plane apart & start on the hardware, e.g.. screws, rods & brass adjuster wheel etc.

I use a brass wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean up the rods.

With the rods clean I turn my attention to the brass nuts that hold the knob & tote. These are usually damaged by some oaf using a screwdriver thats too small. It's quite easy to fix a slightly mangled nut.

I put the brass nut on a short rod & put it in a drill press. Using a small block of timber with some P180 on it I give it a quick sand.

Here it is before polishing.

I then put the rod & nut in a cordless drill & polish it with a buffing wheel (stitched cloth) on a bench grinder. The polish I use is called Multi-Shine, it's a light blue colour.

The finished thing!

When I do the levercap retaining screw I protect the thread with masking tape.

It receives the same treatment as the brass nuts.

Next I move on to the brass adjustment wheel. Here it's being polished on the buffing wheel.

I use a high-tec solution for polishing the recess of the wheel... A piece of dowel with a saw kerf about 15mm long in the end of it. First up I use steel wool taped over the tip to do the initial cleaning.

I then slot some cloth for polishing &.........

Finished wheel, nice ;)))

If you need to, you can remove the depth adjustment yoke by knocking out the indicated pin. It does make the masking & painting of the frog a LOT easier.

Here I'm removing the yoke pin. Be sure that the pin drift is SMALLER than the pin as you don't want it stuck in the hole.

Now I have it apart. After bitter experience I learned to put the pin IMMEDIATELY with the other fittings.

While I have the frog in hand I check & flatten the base if needed.

I also do the frogs' mounting points on the plane base. Just a block of timber wrapped with some sandpaper will sort it out.

I also lap the plane iron bed on the frog. I put some duct tape around the lateral adjuster so it won't be damaged.

The frog is lapped at the very edge of a bit of glass with sandpaper attached because the lateral adjustment wheel is proud of the plane iron bed.

Finished!

Moving on to the timber work. At left are my mandrels they fit different size knobs. I use these to mount the knob as I don't have a lathe.

I make sure that there is a washer in the top hole otherwise you will damage the knob nut bearing surface & the knob will always come lose on the plane.

Mounted in the drill press. It dosen't matter if the knob dosen't spin true just use a low speed. I think mine is running at about 400-500 rpm.

I start with P120 paper & progress through the grits. I try not to change the shape of the knob with excessive sanding.

Sanded to P600....Smooooth As :))

Now for the tote. This is a bit slower as it has to be done by hand.

Finished! The knob & tote are ready for a coat or 2 of lacquer.

The plane body & frog are ready to be put in the electrolysis bath. I attach a tall rod to act as the cathode (negative attachment) point.

I make up a solution of water (enough to cover the plane/frog) with LECTRIC washing soda, available at a supermarket. The mix ratio is 2 table spoons/ litre It needs mixing well.

The best cathode to use is stainless steel. I get mine from a local sheet metal shop. They always have a bin full of scrap for which they are paid by the recyclers. They let me have a few pieces for free.

Here is my setup. I use a tricky-dicky power supply that's rated at 3 amps. The negative lead is attached to the plane & the positive lead is attached to a sacrificial piece of stainless steel. I'l leave it cook overnight.

When you fire it up you should see lotz of tiny bubbles down the length of the plane.

This is what the soup looks like in the morning. Electrolysis will only work until there is no more rust to remove - You CAN NOT overcook it.

Straight out of the bath, you can see where the japaning is bubbled. This means there was rust UNDER the japaning.

Starting the cleaning plane body.

All clean! I then give it a quick wash with Methylated Spirits & put in the sun to dry.

Now the frog gets the same treatment as the plane body. To make it easy to attach the negative lead I bolt on a piece of copper wire that will be above the liquid level.

While the frog is brewing I mask the plane body.

I press down on the masking tape at the edge so I can see the outline of the plane underneath. Then it a simple matter of cutting using a scalpel. It's easier to start in the middle.

Easy as!!

I then mask the other side & then the sole.

The machined surfaces in the plane body need masking as well.

The body is all masked now.

While waiting for the frog to cook I spray the knob & tote. 2nd coat a couple of hours later. They have been sprayed but not hand rubbed with wax & steel wool.

Frog is ready!! & I've given it a clean.

Now I mask it up. Same principles as the body.

Don't forget the underside.

All masked & ready to spray.

The first coat of Epoxy Enamel, satin finish.

The frog gets the same treatment. Both parts get 3 coats each.

These are the 3M Scotch-Brite wheels I use. They are 6" X 2" & you need to buy a centre for them. BUT you only need one centre as you can pop it out & put it in another wheel. The centre is designed to fit one of those tapered arbors that fit on a bench grinder. You can get them from industrial abrasive suppliers that stock 3M products. There is a huge range if grits available I use multi-finish wheels in medium & fine grades.

Since I've done the iron & cap earlier I'll demonstrate on an old chip breaker from a #4. The finished result was achieved in less than 1 min.

These wheels are Awesome!!

In less than a minute!!

Here is one I prepared earlier (for the #2)

... & the finished lever cap.

Now the paint on the plane & frog is dry it's time to see what the time & effort of masking looks like.

Now it's time to put the yoke & pin back in place. Ensure the drift is LARGER than the pin hole.

Remove the masking tape from the bottom of the frog.

... & the top.

When attaching the knob & tote use a screwdriver that fits the slot FULL WIDTH.

Looks good so far.........

Didn't even butcher the brass screw cap!

Now fit the lever cap, blade & chip breaker assembly.

Now just stand back & have a look!

VERY nice!

Ready for the next 100 years. Sharpen the blade & away we go.....